Fuller's endures after all these years
Not much has changed, even after a fire at the diner in 2023
Fuller’s Coffee Shop, 136 NW Ninth Ave., is a busy, classic diner with a red neon sign. Founded in 1947, it’s been in this corner spot at Ninth and Davis streets since 1960.
What it isn’t is a leisurely brunch spot to while away hours. It’s efficient and friendly, and it’s easiest to get a red stool at the U-shaped counter if you come alone, or a plus one.
When my dad first took me here, Fuller’s was frequented mostly by postal workers and others eating before going to work downtown. Later, when I brought my very young daughter here, the short-order cooks made bear figures with the batter: a big round pancake for the face, two small ones for the ears.
Not much has changed, even considering a 2023 fire. The staff refills the coffee into brown mugs with agility. The wraparound counter fits people elbow to elbow for omelettes, huevos rancheros, scrambled eggs and bacon.
Keep to yourself like the Edward Hopper’s “Nighthawks,” or enter a group conversation, whatever.
During the week there’s a $5 hamburger, as well as favorites such as Monte Cristo and chicken salad sandwiches. On a recent Sunday, families and couples sat on the red stools and fueled up for the day. A little girl seated with her grandmother turned her napkin into a smock and ordered pancakes. A quote from Anthony Bourdain on the menu asks, “What nicer thing can you do for somebody than make them breakfast?”
Briefly
Dave’s Hot Chicken will open at 831 NW 23rd Ave. in the former Santa Fe Taqueria spot. PBOT may require a “Chicken Pick-Up Permit” for all the delivery drivers circling the block.
Thai Peacock, the busy restaurant near Powell’s on Southwest Ninth Ave., has leased the restaurant space in the courtyard of the Elizabeth Lofts at 333 NW 10th Ave. This spot has been empty for many years.
Proper Pint opened its third location at 2251 NW Quimby St. in Slabtown. With two side patios and a fire pit outside, green tile and banquettes inside, it’s a very pleasing spot. Kings and Daughters beer is on tap (plus 19 others) and Timbers and Thorns games are shown on screen. Dial the red phone to order from Woodstock’s Bridge City Pizza, said to be Portland’s best Chicago-style pizza.
Chef Gabriel Pascuzzi opened Hey Luigi, an Italian cocktail bar, at 2175 NW Raleigh St. across from New Seasons in Slabtown.
John’s Cafe, 301 NW Broadway, is temporarily closed due to a medical issue.